what is tie and dye?

Bandhani is a type of tie-dye textile performed by plucking the cloth (material used) by finger nails or by putting pulses bead or tiny pebbles and tying the area around with a polyester thread. 

• Today most Bandhini making centers are situatied in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sindh, Punjab regionand in Tamil Nadu where it's known as Sungudi .

• Earliest evidence of Bandhani dates back to Indus Valley Civilization where dyeing was done as early as 4000 B.C.

 • Bandhani is also known as Bandhej, Bandhani , Piliya, and as per the regional delicate. 

• Leheria or leheriya derives from the word lahar, meaning wave is also another unique form of tie dye technique used in Rajasthan.

 • Other tying techniques include Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. 

• The final products are known with various names like Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori and also Chandrokhani.

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Bandhej

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Bandhani

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Piliya

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Leheria

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PROCESS • 

The art of Bandhani is a highly skilled process. 

• The technique involves dyeing a fabric which is tied tightly with a thread at several points, thus producing a variety of patterns like Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. 

• Bandhani pieces can be dyed by natural and artificial colours. 

• The Bandhani work has been exclusively carried out by the Khatri community of Kutchh and of wadhwan and of jetpur. 

• A meter length of cloth can have thousands of tiny knots known as "Bheendi" in the local language ("Kutchhi"), Four bheendis are known as a "Kadi". 

• In Bandhani, different colors convey different meanings, red represents a bride, a yellow background suggests a lady has become a mother recently

 The creation of batik is a three-stage process of waxing, dyeing and dewaxing (removing the wax).

 • There are also several sub-processes like preparing the cloth, tracing the designs, stretching the cloth on the frame, waxing the area of the cloth that does not need dyeing, preparing the dye, dipping the cloth in dye, boiling the cloth to remove wax and washing the cloth in soap.

 • The characteristic effects of the batik are the fine cracks that appears in the wax, which allow small amounts of the dye to seep in. It is a feature not possible in any other form of printing. 

• The ideal mixture for batik wax is 30 per cent beeswax and 70 per cent paraffin wax.

 • Cambric, poplin and voiles are used besides pure silk.

 • Synthetic fabrics should be avoided. 

• Since ancient times Indians have been known to wear vibrant colors and dyes which were made from barks of trees, leaves, flowers and minerals.

 • Blue was obtained from indigo, while orange and red were from henna. 

• Yellow was from turmeric and lilac and mauve from logwood. 

• Black was created by burning iron in molasses and cochineal from insects.

1.  Step 1: The first wax is applied over the penciled-in outline of the pattern. Almost always the original cloth is white or beige. 
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3. • Step 2: The cloth is dyed in the first dye bath. In this case the first dyebath is indigo blue. The area of the cloth where the wax was applied in Step 1 will remain white. 
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5. • Step 3: Second application of wax is applied. In this case it is a dark brown color. A poorer quality of wax is used to cover larger areas of cloth. The darker color helps to differentiate it from the first wax applied. Any parts that are covered with this wax application will remain the indigo color. 
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7. • Step 4: The cloth is dyed in the second dye bath. In this case it is a navy blue. Any areas that are not covered by wax will become dark blue.
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9.  • Step 5: All the wax that has been applied thus far is removed. This is done by heating the wax and scraping it off and also by applying hot water and sponging off the remaining wax. 
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11. • Step 6: Wax is applied to the area of the fabric that the artist wishes to remain the indigo blue color.
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13.  • Step 7: Wax is applied to the area of the fabric that the artist wishes to remain white. 
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15. • Step 8: The fabric is submerged in the final dye bath. In this case it is brown. Any areas of the cloth that have not been covered with wax will become brown. 
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17. • Step 9: The finished cloth after all of the wax has been removed.

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 What is Batik?

Batik is a traditional Asian art with origins in India, Indonesia & China. The word is Malay and means “wax writing.” The batik process involves painting with melted wax using a tjanting, a special tool similar to a fountain pen, onto cloth, then dyeing the material. The covered areas resist the dye except where the hardened wax has cracked, producing the crackled, spider web effect which is characteristic of batik. The waxing and dyeing can be repeated as many times as necessary to achieve multiple colors and more varied designs. Or the wax can be completely removed and reapplied in different areas to get an even broader spectrum of colors.The final process is removing the wax from the material. This can be done by ironing the fabric between newspaper or repeatedly rinsing it in boiling water — over and over and over… The end result is a colorful and unique creation.

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Fishy Example

1. Dye material blue.  Wax areas to stay blue.2. Put waxed material in yellow dye, turning the fabric chartreuse with a waxed blue background.  Wax the areas to stay chartreuse. 3. Dye the material dark blue, turning the unwaxed areas dark green. 4.  Remove wax to reveal completed design. ................................................................................................. .................................................................................................. What is the difference between Batik and Tie dye? Tie dye and Batik are alike in that they both use “resist” techniques, but that’s where the similarity ends. Batik is a more controlled, detailed process using melted wax as a resist to draw a design or pattern onto material. Tie dye is a process in which a pattern is produced by a resist from folding, twisting or tying material. The end results are random patterns that are either geometric or loose and free-flowing and/or combinations of everything in between. ................................................................................................... ................................................................................................... Will the colors bleed? Most of the excess dye is rinsed out when remove the wax. A little more will come out in the wash, but it won’t affect the design of the batik or other items being washed with it. LOCATION • Bandhani work in India was started by the Khatri Community of Gujarat. • It is an ancient art practise that is mainly used in the state of Gujarat and Rajasthan. • Places in Rajasthan like Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jamnagar in Gurjarat are the well known centres producing odhnis, sarees and turbans in Bandhani. • Different communities in Rajasthan have for ages followed the tradition on tying turbans with different patterns of bandhani on their heads, these were used to identify which community the person belonged to. ..................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... STEPWISE PROCESS OF SHIBORI DYEING PROCESS • There are an infinite number of ways one can bind, stitch, fold, twist, or compress cloth for shibori, and each way results in very different patterns. • Each method is used to achieve a certain result, but each method is also used to work in harmony with the type of cloth used. • Therefore, the technique used in shibori depends not only on the desired pattern, but the characteristics of the cloth being dyed. • Also, different techniques can be used in conjunction with one another to achieve even more elaborate results. ................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES OF SHIBORI ROCESS • There are lots of ways to fold the fabric. • Fabric is folded in half lengthwise, then folded again, and then fan folded into triangles. • After folding, it is clamped with bulldog clamps. • Now it is soaked in water and then dye it in hboiling water. • At last, it is dried in sun and remove the clamp. • The area with the clam of specific shape and size remains undyed. .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... thank you for reading